Apollo Valves FAQ: Part Numbers, Matthews NC, and the Questions Buyers Actually Ask

If you're searching for Apollo valves, you're probably not reading for fun. You need a part number, a spec, or a straight answer about whether something will work. I've been ordering valves and fittings for a 60-person operations team since 2021. I report to both operations and finance, so I care about specs and invoices equally. These are the questions that come up most often, answered the way I'd want them answered.

Where are Apollo valves made?

Apollo Valves are made in Matthews, North Carolina, for a large part of their domestic line. The brand is owned by Conbraco Industries, and that Matthews NC facility is the one that shows up in product literature and on shipping documents. If you're required to buy domestic for a federally funded job, or you just want to shorten your supply chain, that matters.

One caveat: not every item with an Apollo name is manufactured in the same plant. Some specialty items come from overseas. The safest route is to check the "Made in USA" note on the specific spec sheet and ask your distributor if the compliance paperwork matters for your project.

What is Apollo valve part number 10075806?

The part number 10075806 is one of those SKUs that gets passed around in cross-reference lists and online listings. In the Apollo product structure, it appears as a bronze ball valve—usually in the 2-piece, 3/4-inch range—but I'd rather not quote specs from memory. The smart move is to pull the current Apollo Valves catalog PDF (as of early 2026) and search that number. If it doesn't show up there, the listing you're looking at may be outdated or a distributor's internal code.

Here's something vendors won't tell you: just because a part number matches on a third-party site doesn't mean the current version has the same specs. Manufacturers change materials and trim over the years without changing the model number. Always verify the series designation, pressure rating, and end connections before you order a substitute.

What's a 3/4 ball valve with drain and when do I need one?

A 3/4 ball valve with drain is what it sounds like: a 3/4-inch ball valve with a small drain port on the body. You close the main valve, open the drain, and let trapped water out of the downstream line. For irrigation, outdoor faucets, or any system that gets winterized, that's a lot easier than disassembling fittings.

I didn't care about drain valves until I had to coordinate winter shutdown for a facility with exterior lines. When I compared a standard ball valve and a drain version side by side, I finally understood why plumbers pay extra for them. It's not about the valve itself—it's about saving yourself a pipe freeze later. So glad I added drain valves to the winterization list. I almost went standard to save $40, which would have meant draining lines by hand for years.

If you're choosing between a standard 3/4 ball valve and one with a drain, look at the pressure rating and body material first. The drain port is a convenience, not a substitute for proper system isolation.

Can you throttle a gate valve?

Short answer: not really, and you shouldn't use a gate valve for throttling on a regular basis. Gate valves are designed to be fully open or fully closed. When you use one to regulate flow in a partially open position, the disc can vibrate, and the seat can erode, especially with high-velocity flow. That's how you end up with a valve that won't seat tightly when you actually need it closed.

If you need to control flow, a ball valve or a globe valve is the better tool. Ball valves give you a quarter-turn and a reasonable throttling range, and globe valves are built for the job. Does that mean you can never crack a gate valve slightly during a temporary operation? I've done it in a pinch. Not ideal, but workable. Just don't design a system around it. If you ask me, throttling a gate valve is a temporary workaround, not a solution.

The same principle applies across brands, and the design limits are reflected in ASME B16.34 pressure-temperature ratings. Gate valves maximize flow when open; they're not meant to ride halfway.

Is there a difference between Apollo and Apollo-style valves?

This one trips me up every time I get a quote that's "equivalent to Apollo." Real talk: the difference usually comes down to documentation. Apollo valves from Matthews NC come with traceability when you request it—material certifications, pressure test records, and a manufacturer that has been around for decades. An Apollo-style imported valve might look identical and cost 30% less, but you have to ask whether it comes with the same paperwork and quality control.

I'm not saying cheaper alternatives are always a bad idea. I've used them for non-critical applications. More often than not, they do the job. But if the project calls for certified materials or a specific brand, "looks the same" doesn't get you there. Check the print, check the trim, and check whether the manufacturer will back it up in writing.

Why do I see lawn mower seats when I search for Apollo valves?

Never expected to get asked this, but it keeps coming up in search logs: people type "Apollo valves 10075806" and end up on pages that mention lawn mower seats. What happened? Part numbers overlap across unrelated product categories. Some online retailers use generic supplier codes, so a number like 10075806 can point to a valve in one catalog and a seat in another. The surprise wasn't the search result—it was how often I saw the same number repeated on non-valve products.

If that happens to you, ignore the lawn mower seats and look for an Apollo catalog PDF or a trusted distributor's site. The valve is still there. You just have to filter out the noise.

What should I verify before ordering Apollo valves online?

Before you order, verify four things: body material, pressure rating, end connections, and whether you need a lead-free or certified version. Also check the flow direction if it's an inline check valve. I learned that one the hard way when a rush order arrived with a check valve installed backwards.

When I compared our first-half and second-half purchases in 2024, the biggest issue wasn't price—it was specification errors. We wasted more money on returns and restocking fees than we saved by shopping around. The fix was simple: create a short spec sheet for every valve request and send it to the distributor with the part number. It doesn't eliminate mistakes, but it cuts them way down.

If you're still unsure about a specific Apollo part, the current catalog is the best authority. Search for the part number, confirm the series, and then ask two questions: what's the pressure rating, and is this the lead-free version? If the seller can't answer both, that's a red flag.